CHILKAT PENINSULA, Alaska - It was a picture-postcard morning, the type that can elicit a toothy grin from anyone with a pulse.

A cool breeze tickled the alder-lined meadow, sending branches frolicking. The silt-gray stream, undoubtedly teeming with Dolly Vardens, bubbled and popped as it meandered toward the frothy salt water cove. And snow-capped mountains loomed on the horizon in every direction, standing as sentinels over the rugged surroundings.

The setting dwarfed even the most impressive landscapes I'd ever seen and somewhere among this primeval labyrinth seemingly untouched by time was a big bear. The tracks along the upper edge of the stream bed belonged to either a massive black bear or a respectable brownie, but either way, the hulking animal wasn't too far gone from making its distinct series of impressions in the coarse sand.

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